Food Glorious Food: The Ferry Building Marketplace

Next to New York, many gastronome’s cite San Francisco as North America’s great foodie city. The arguments are strong: its long history of immigration have bestowed a wide variety of influences on local cuisine, it’s the birthplace of the organic food movement and in close proximity to the famed Napa Valley wine country.

Although you are spoilt for dining out choices in San Francisco, you may like to buy some fresh produce and cook up a meal in your holiday apartment. One of the best places to shop for fresh food, for both locals and visitors alike, is the Ferry Building at the foot of Market Street on the edge of the water.

A local landmark, the Ferry Building has been the main transit hub for San Francisco ever since it opened in 1898. Curiously, its 245-foot tall clock tower was modeled after the famous Giralda in Seville, Spain and quickly became a welcoming symbol of the city of San Francisco. At the terminal’s peak, around 50,00 ferry passengers arrived daily, passing through an elegant arched reception hall before entering into the city of the Golden Gate.

In 2003, the Ferry Building received an extensive makeover, putting some spit and polish on its gracious Victorian form. Unlike other major ferry and port buildings across the world, the Ferry Building has retained its original function; it’s still the transit hub that connects all of San Francisco’s neighbourhoods and the surrounding bay communities. (If not travelling here by ferry, take the historic Line F trolley car, which stops right outside the front door).

The Ferry Building Marketplace offers a great selection of farmer’s produce, gourmet specialties, prepared foods and fresh meat and fish. Whether its some fresh pasta and sauce you can ‘assemble’ back at home or the ingredients for a classic San Franciscan dish such as Crab Louis Salad, you’ll find it here — in surroundings that are a true slice of the city’s history.

** The Ferry Building is open daily, though many stalls in the marketplace are closed on Mondays.

Since 2006 Holiday Velvet offers San Francisco accommodation.

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Flower Power in San Francisco

Most people love flowers and San Francisco puts on one of the great floral shows. The enticingly-named Conservatory of Flowers is located in a Victorian-era greenhouse and displays beautiful flora from all over the world.

One of the backlashes of the industrial age was a yearning for open, green spaces and a wide interest in botany, leading to construction of giant botanic greenhouses in both Britain and the US. With its central dome and arched-shaped wings, many believe that the Conservatory of Flowers’ design was inspired by that of Palm House in London’s Kew Gardens. Sitting gracefully on a rolling hill in the city’s enormous Golden Gate Park, it has been a San Francisco landmark since construction in 1878.

Like most landmarks, the conservatory has had a dogged history. In the first half of the 20th century it was plagued with serious maintenance issues, and a series of fires rendered the wooden and glass structure unsound (yet surprisingly it came out unscathed from the city’s great earthquake of 1906). By 1998 the conservatory was placed on the list of the 100 Most Endangered Landmarks in the World, a catalyst for major charities and preservation trusts to raise funds for its rehabilitation. Twenty five million US dollars was raised and put towards renovation work that lasted last four years.

Today, the Conservatory of Flowers hosts several exhibits each year under its majestic central dome, and a rotation system means that all species are shown at their blooming best. One of the most recently popular has been ‘Chomp!’ a fascinating and somewhat ghoulish look at carnivorous plants such as the pitcher plants of Borneo and the fly-eating Venus flytrap (the largest of this succulent is aptly named ‘Abandoned Hope’).

On permanent display in the conservatory’s Highlands Tropics Gallery, you’ll see delicate orchids, tumbling moss and majestic ferns, and aquatic plants such as giant water lilies floating in pools of water that cascade into each other. The Potted Plants Gallery sees traditional varieties in pot plants and urns collected from all over the world. The Conservatory of Flowers is a fascinating tribute to biodiversity and the intricate work of Mother Nature

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The Fillmore district San Francisco

The Fillmore district, San Francisco, is sometimes called the Moe or the Fillmoe and really just covers the streets in the neighbourhood of Fillmore Street, an area renowned for its music venues. Below is a selection:

The Great American Music Hall is located at 859 Ofarrell Street and is over one hundred years old. Originally it was a bordello and restaurant and is now one of the finest rock venues in California. The interior offers beautifully carved balconies, frescoes on the ceilings, columns made of marble, and magnificent hanging lights. The Great American Music Hall is not that big but it is charming and generally holds about five hundred and fifty people within the rococo décor.

Another great music venue is the Fillmore which is at 1805 Geary Boulevard and it’s the kind of place that performers play in when trying to make a comeback.

On the other hand, Kimo’s Bar & Penthouse Lounge at 1351 Polk Street has the kind of lounge environment that encourages less formal performers and welcomes great musicians that just love to jam. The drinks are reasonably priced and the décor has an Hawaiian flavour. Through its two glass walls there is a fantastic view of the city and if you like to watch drag acts some of the best are in the upstairs bar.

If you like acoustic guitars and good singing the Roem Baur Music at 940 Bay Street is the place to visit.

Alternatively, the Mezzanine at 444 Jessie Street is where you can be very cool as you pay for your expensive drinks. The Mezzanine offers loads of space, great sound and a good choice of bars. It’s a fun place to be, especially if you like to watch the young and beautiful at play. Sometimes there is a DJ and at other times local bands play.

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